Installing loft installation is a straightforward job for someone who is fit and competent, but there are potential hazards that you should be aware of. Lofts can be dark, dusty places full of junk, as well as routes for electric cables and piping, so it’s important that you survey your loft and take proper precautions to prevent an accident or injury.
Preparation and planning
- Work out how much insulation you’re going to need. Measure the dimensions of the loft.
- If you’re going to be filling the gaps between the joists, measure the gap between the joists.
- Check that the loft is properly ventilated with either spaces at the eaves where the roof meets the floor, or from ventilators in the roof.
- Measure the size of your loft hatch so you know you’ll be able to get the insulation packs into the loft.
- Check for any pipes as these will also need to be lagged to prevent them freezing as your loft will be a lot cooler once you have installed the insulation.
- If there is a water tank in your loft you may also need to buy a tank jacket.
Laying your insulation
- Start at the corner furthest away from the loft hatch. Tuck the end of the roll into the eaves but don’t completely block them – leave an air gap of at least 5cm to ensure there is sufficient airflow to prevent condensation.
- If there is no existing insulation between the joists, start by laying 100mm between the joists.
- Lay a further 150mm across this first layer at right angles to the joists. At this stage take extra care, working across the loft in a line. You will be covering the joists as you go, so be sure not to lose your footing when moving about.
- You may need to cut the insulation to fit round pipes or route cables. Butt the ends together around the obstruction. This will avoid the risk of overheating and possible fires in the loft. Do not bend or pull wiring out of the way.
- As you lay the insulation lag any pipes as you come across them so you don’t have to walk across the loft once you’ve finished laying the insulation.
- If you have a cold water tank, don’t put insulation under it. Instead fold the insulation up around the sides of the tank at the bottom and then wrap the tank jacket round the tank and over the top of the ends of the insulation to form a draught proof seal.
- If there are hoses for extractor fans or recessed light fittings protruding into the loft space, trim the insulation around them, leaving a gap of 15cm all the way round.
- Finally, don’t forget the loft hatch. Just nail or staple some insulation onto the back.
- Now sit back, make yourself a cup of tea and enjoy a warmer house and lower heating bills for the rest of your life.
It might be worth noting that you will probably need to lay more like 170mm-200mm on top of the joists. The current Building Regulations for Conservation of Fuel and Power (Part L1A specifically for existing dwellings) does state 150mm to reach the correct thermal performance, but with almost every product on the market you will actually need a minimum of 170mm to reach the required U values.
By: Insulag on August 10, 2009
at 10:17 am
Grants are available for this type of work. If you are over 70 or on certain benefits it is free, otherwise expect to pay between £150 and £200 which is generally cheaper than buying the materials and doing it yourself.
Another advantage is the grant also covers labour so you do not have to buy your own safety equipment or take the rise of falling through your ceiling.
By: Jim Barrie on September 29, 2009
at 3:52 pm